How to Customize Volume Lash Extensions for Every Eye Shape

Every client’s eyes are unique – a one-size-fits-all lash map doesn’t work because eye shapes vary so much. This lash extensions guide will show you how to tailor volume lash extensions to suit every eye shape. We’ll explore the best lash styles for each shape and share professional lash mapping techniques to enhance natural beauty. By learning to customize lash extensions for eye shapes like almond, round, hooded, and more, you can create stunning sets that flatter every client.

Understanding Eyelash Extension Types & Volume Styles

Before diving into eye-specific styling, it’s important to understand different eyelash extension types and volume techniques. Lash extensions come in several styles:

• Classic Extensions: A 1:1 ratio – one extension per natural lash for a simple, mascara-like look.
• Volume Extensions: Multiple ultra-fine extensions (usually 2-6) are fanned and applied to one natural lash, creating a fuller, fluffier effect.
• Hybrid Lash Extensions: A blend of classic and volume in the same set – mixing single lashes with volume fans for a textured, dimensional look. This style gives a balance between natural and dramatic, often appearing wispy and versatile.
• Mega Volume Lashes: An extreme version of volume, using very fine extensions in larger fans (often 6 or more extensions per natural lash) to achieve maximum density and drama. Mega volume sets yield an ultra-dark, bold look for clients who love high-impact lashes.

Volume lashes can be created by hand-making fans or by using premade fan lashes. Many lash artists buy premade lashes (pre-fanned extensions) to save time and ensure consistency. In fact, using quality premade fans can significantly speed up application without sacrificing a uniform, symmetrical look. The best premade fan lashes have thin bases and are bonded neatly, giving fullness while maintaining good retention. Whether hand-crafted or premade, volume fans must be lightweight to avoid damaging natural lashes. Knowing how to apply volume lashes correctly – isolating each natural lash and attaching the base of the fan securely – is crucial for both lash health and longevity.

Pro Tip: If you’re new to volume, premade volume fans offer an easier entry point. They come ready-made in various sizes, so you can add fullness quickly. Premade fans save time during application and reduce hand fatigue, which is especially helpful when creating dense volume sets. As you gain skill, you can gradually incorporate handmade fans for more customization.

Product Selection and Tools

Choosing the right products and tools is the foundation of creating beautiful, customized volume lash extensions. Start by selecting high-quality lashes that are lightweight and soft, ensuring they won’t weigh down or damage natural lashes. Volume lashes come in a variety of diameters—typically 0.03mm to 0.07mm for volume sets—so opt for thinner extensions when building fuller fans. Premade fans can be a great choice for beginners or for those seeking speed and consistency, while handmade fans allow for more precise customization. Always check that your chosen lashes have a neat, narrow base for seamless blending and strong retention.

Equally important are the adhesives and tools you use. Choose a lash adhesive that offers both strong hold and flexibility, and be mindful of its drying time to suit your skill level and working speed. Tweezers designed for volume lashing—often with a fine, curved or boot-shaped tip—make it easier to pick up and place fans with precision. A gentle lash cleanser, under-eye pads, and a soft lash brush are essential for prepping and maintaining both the natural lashes and extensions. Investing in quality tools not only streamlines your application process but also ensures a comfortable, safe experience for your clients, allowing you to achieve flawless, long-lasting volume lash looks with confidence.

Lash Mapping Techniques for Custom Styles

To customize lash extensions for each client, start with a plan. Lash mapping is the process of designing a lash placement plan across the eyelid, deciding which lengths, curls, and thicknesses go where. Essentially, lash mapping techniques allow you to “sketch” the lash look before application. By using a lash map (often drawn on a pad or under-eye sticker), you ensure a symmetric, flattering design tailored to the client’s features. Mapping guides you in selecting the right lash lengths and curls for each zone of the eye, rather than randomly placing extensions.

A basic lash extension chart or map typically divides the lash line into sections (inner, middle, outer). For example, you might map shorter extensions in the inner corner, medium lengths in the middle, and the longest extensions at the outer corner for a winged effect. This planning prevents uneven or unbalanced results. It also helps you adjust styles – for instance, using a “doll eye” map (longest lashes at mid-eye) to make eyes look more round, or a “cat eye” map (longest at outer edge) to elongate the eye’s appearance.

Why Mapping Matters: Proper mapping lets you customize each set to the client’s eye shape and desired style. It ensures the design complements their natural eye and face proportions. According to lash experts, mapping out lengths, curls, and thicknesses ahead of time leads to a fabulous set that matches the client’s eye shape and preferences. It also improves efficiency – you’ll apply lashes faster when you have a clear roadmap to follow. In short, spending a few minutes on a lash map leads to better, more personalized results.

Advanced Mapping: Once you master basic mapping, you can experiment with mix-and-match techniques. For instance, lash mapping techniques can include mixing different curls in one set (e.g. placing a curlier lash like D in areas that need lift, and a softer curl like C where you want a more natural blend). You can also use layering (stacking shorter and longer lashes in the same section) to add texture or a wispy effect. Always adjust your map if a client’s eyes are asymmetrical or if one eye is slightly different – customize each eye so the final look is balanced.

Now, let’s look at specific eye shapes and how to map and style volume lash extensions for each.

Styling for Almond Eyes

Almond eyes are oval-shaped with a gentle upsweep at the outer corners. This eye shape is considered very balanced and is often the easiest to style. In fact, lash artists consider almond eyes the most versatile eye shape, able to pull off almost any lash look. With almond eyes, you have the freedom to choose from many styles – from natural to dramatic – depending on your client’s preference.

That said, some styles particularly flatter almond eyes:

• Cat-Eye: Emphasizing the natural upswept outer corners tends to be especially gorgeous. A cat-eye mapping uses gradually longer extensions toward the outer edge. This elongates the eye for a sultry look. Almond eyes can handle the drama of a cat-eye very well, and this style will enhance their symmetry.
• Doll-Eye (Open-Eye): This mapping places the longest lashes at the mid-eye (over the iris) to make the eyes look bigger and rounder. Almond eyes already have a balanced shape, but a doll-eye can add a wide-eyed, glamorous effect if desired. It’s a great option for clients who want their eyes to appear more open.

When designing lashes for almond eyes, consider the client’s goals. Almond-eyed clients can wear practically any styling, so your lash map choice should be guided by whether they want to widen their eyes or elongate them, for example. If the client wants a bold, elongated look, go for the cat-eye with extra length at the ends. If they prefer a bright, open look, a doll-eye or even a rounded (uniform) map will work well. Keep in mind the natural lash directions: if the outer lashes point downward a bit (sometimes even almond eyes can have slight downturned corners), you may need a curlier extension on those outer lashes to keep the lift.

Styling Tips (Almond Eyes):

• Recommended: Almost any style – especially cat-eye for a lifted, winged effect or doll-eye for a more open look.
• Curls: Almond eyes handle strong curls nicely, but you can use a mix. For a cat-eye, you might use C or D curls on the outer portions to give lift.
• Lengths: Can typically support longer lengths on the outer half. Just ensure a smooth transition so the lash line looks seamless.

Styling for Round & Prominent Eyes

Round eyes are large, open eyes where much of the iris is visible (the iris isn’t covered by the lids). They often have a more circular appearance. Some clients with round eyes also have protruding eyes, meaning the eyes are set a bit forward in the socket, creating a prominent look. The goal with round or prominent eyes is usually to add horizontal width and create a more elongated illusion, balancing the openness of the eye.

For lashes for round eyes, a cat-eye map is ideal. Emphasizing length toward the outer corners helps stretch the round eye shape into a flattering almond-like silhouette. By using longer extensions on the outer edge and shorter toward the inner corner, you create a winged, feline effect that adds width. This balances the eye’s naturally tall height with more length.

Here are some tips for round or protruding eyes:

• Use Softer Curls: Very strong curls (like a D or DD curl) can sometimes make round eyes look more bulbous or startled. Opt for looser curls like B or C, especially toward the outer ends, to gently elongate without overly “popping” the eye out. A softer curl will blend with the eye’s profile and not curl back into the lid.
• Avoid Doll/Open Eye Styles: Placing the longest lashes at the center (as in a doll-eye) can make round eyes appear even rounder or give a perpetual surprised look. Open-eye mappings can overwhelm the naturally open round shape. It’s usually best to avoid those styles on very round eyes to prevent an exaggerated look.
• Focus Length on Outer Half: From the middle of the iris outward, gradually increase the extension lengths, peaking at the outer corners. This draws the viewer’s eye outward, widening the overall appearance of the eyes.

For protruding eyes (eyes that sit more forward and may have a lot of visible lid space), similar principles apply. A voluminous set with moderate lengths can add depth without protruding further. Often a volume lash style with medium lengths (nothing too long that could exaggerate protrusion) works well. A cat-eye or a soft flare on the outer corner will gently elongate and slightly recede the appearance of prominent eyes, creating a harmonious look.

Styling Tips (Round/Prominent Eyes):

• Recommended: Cat-eye mapping – longest lashes at outer corners for horizontal emphasis.
• Curls: B or C curls to avoid an overly dramatic upward lift; this keeps the lash line looking elongated rather than tall.
• Avoid: Very curly lashes at the center, and extremely long lengths near the middle of the eye. Also avoid placing the longest extensions right at the mid-eye (no doll eye), which could make eyes look too “open” or surprised.
• Trick: You can leave the very inner corners with quite short lashes (to maintain a slimming effect), then gradually flare out length toward the ends.

Styling for Hooded Eyes

Hooded eyes have a skin fold that partially covers the lid, often hiding the natural crease. This excess lid skin can droop over the lash line, making the upper eyelid appear small or “hooded.” With hooded eyes, the main objective is to lift and open the eyes so that the lashes are visible and not hidden under the lid. We want to create the illusion of a more lifted, defined crease area.

Some of the best lashes for hooded eyes are styles that add lift at the outer corners and center. A lifted cat-eye works wonderfully: by using longer lashes toward the outer edge, you pull attention upward and outward, counteracting the downward pull of the hood. Unlike a standard cat-eye, for hooded eyes you might start the length a bit closer to the center of the eye (rather than only at the very outer end) to really open up the middle as well. Also, blending in some shorter lengths near the inner corner prevents the inner eye from looking heavy.

Hooded eyes can sometimes handle a bit more curl, since a stronger curl can lift the extensions up out of the hood. Using a D curl or CC curl on the extensions provides a dramatic lift that pushes the lashes up and visible beyond the drooping lid. This helps prevent the lashes from pointing straight out or down (which could cause them to disappear under the hood). Lash mapping techniques for hooded eyes often include a gradient from shorter in the inner corner to longest at or just past the center of the eye, then slightly tapering or maintaining length to the outer corner. This creates a wide-open effect in the middle of the eye and a gentle wing at the end.

Hybrid styles are also great for hooded eyes. Mixing classic and volume lashes (a hybrid lash extensions set) can provide both texture and lift. The volume fans give fullness that can push up against the heavy lid, while classic lashes keep the set from getting too dense or heavy-looking. The combination ensures the lashes are noticeable. Just be careful not to use extensions that are too thick or too heavy in weight – with hooded eyes, heavy extensions could sag or make the eye appear more droopy. Lightweight volume fans (like 3D or 4D) in a hybrid mix are usually effective.

When selecting lashes for hooded eyes, focus on curl and length strategically: use your curliest lashes on the points of the lash line you want to visibly “pop” out from the hood (often the center and just before the outer corner). L and L+ curl extensions are specialty curls that can also work well – they have a flat base and then a strong lift at the tip, which can project out from a heavy lid without poking the skin. Many artists avoid J or B curls on hooded eyes because those can angle downward or straight and get lost under the fold.

Importantly, eyelashes for mature hooded eyes (clients of older age whose lids may be more droopy) need a slightly different approach. As the skin loses elasticity, very dramatic or heavy lashes might accentuate the hooded appearance. Often for older clients, a softer, lighter set is more flattering. For example, if a client’s hooded eyes are due to aging, you may opt for mostly classic lashes or very light volume fans, instead of a dense mega-volume set. Extremely voluminous lashes can look too heavy on mature lids. In fact, if the hooded eye is from age, some lash experts avoid using dense volume lashes and stick to classics, because volume can add unwanted weight on older, droopy lids. Using slightly longer lengths (within safe limits) with a curl like CC or D on the outer half can lift the appearance without needing a thick fan. This gives a more youthful, awake look.

Styling Tips (Hooded Eyes):

• Recommended: A modified cat-eye or “squirrel” mapping (short-long-short) that places longest lashes toward the outer 2/3 of the eye. This lifts the eye and defines the outer half. Also effective: hybrid lash extensions to add fullness without too much weight.
• Curls: Strong curls such as D, CC, or specialty L-curls to ensure the extensions are visible above the hood. These curls help “open” the hooded lid area. (Be cautious: if the hooded eye is very deep-set, extremely curled lashes like D could touch the eyelid – ensure they’re positioned properly for comfort.)
• Lengths: Use a range that opens up the eye. Often hooded eyes benefit from medium lengths in the inner corner, longest at the center or just beyond, and slightly shorter at the very outer corner (to avoid pulling the eye down).
• Avoid: Very long or thick extensions on the inner corners (can poke into the hood) and very heavy full-volume sets on mature clients (can make the lid look heavier). Instead, use finer, lighter extensions in greater quantity if fullness is desired, rather than a few very thick extensions.
• For Mature Clients: Lean toward lighter styles – e.g. classic lashes or light volume – because volume lashes can look a bit heavy on older clients with hooded eyes. Prioritize curl and strategic placement over sheer density.

Styling for Monolid Eyes

Monolid eyes (commonly seen in many Asian ethnicities) have little to no visible crease; the eyelid is flat and the lash line often lacks a defined fold above it. Monolids can sometimes appear similar to hooded eyes, but the difference is that monolids don’t have a distinct crease at all (whereas hooded have a crease that’s just covered). The lash line on monolid clients can be partially hidden under the lid skin when eyes are open, so the goal is to create depth and dimension with the lash extensions.

For monolid clients, you can get creative with adding texture and vertical dimension. A popular recommendation is the doll-eye mapping – placing the longest lashes toward the middle of the eye. This helps make the eye look rounder and more open, counteracting the elongated shape of many monolids. Another great style is a cat-eye, but with a twist: you might also add some longer lashes toward the inner eye. Why inner? Because monolid eyes sometimes taper inward significantly; a few longer lashes toward the inner third can actually help define the eye shape more clearly (something that might not be done on other eye shapes). In general, doll-eye and cat-eye mappings are recommended, but with the adjustment of including longer extensions on the inner corner for extra definition. By doing this, you outline the eye’s shape both on the outer end (cat effect) and give a lift on the inner, creating a more dimensional frame for monolid eyes.

Monolids also benefit from mixing curls. Because the eyelid is flat, using only one type of curl might look too uniform. Lash artists often use a mix of C and D curls for monolids: the D (or even L curl) to really push some lashes up and out, and C curls to fill in and create softness. This combination gives a textured, feathery result that adds depth. There’s even a trendy style called “manga lashes” or a staggered approach, where you alternate longer and shorter extensions along the lash line. This spiky alternating effect can create the illusion of a crease or multiple layers of lashes, which is very flattering on monolids that don’t naturally show layers of eyelid.

Avoid natural mapping (where all lash lengths gradually increase and then decrease evenly) for monolids, as it may not provide enough enhancement. A purely natural design could get lost when the client’s eyes are open, since the uniform lashes might tuck under the flat lid and not alter the eye’s appearance much. Monolid eyes typically need a bit of drama or pronounced styling to really pop.

Styling Tips (Monolid Eyes):

• Recommended: Doll-eye (longest in center) to create roundness, or Cat-eye (longest at outer) or a combo of both. Feel free to experiment – for some monolids, a cat-eye with a secondary spike of length near the inner third works wonders.
• Curls: Use a mix. D or L curls to really lift certain sections, and C curls to blend. The varied curls will ensure the lash tips are visible (the stronger curls) and also provide a layered look (the softer curls sit a bit lower).
• Lengths: Don’t be afraid to use longer lengths than you might on a deep-set eye, for example. Monolid clients often can handle a bit more length because their lashes tend to point straight out and there’s not a protruding brow bone to hit. Of course, always consider natural lash health and keep lengths within safe limits (typically no more than 2-3mm longer than their natural lashes for volume sets).
• Avoid: A totally uniform “natural” lash map – monolids need some strategically placed longer lashes or they risk looking too subtle. Also avoid only short lengths; some lash lines on monolids are partially hidden, so if all extensions are short, they might be invisible when eyes are open.
• Extra: Monolids can carry wispy or “kim k” lash styles well (those with deliberate spikes), because it creates an illusion of depth. Just ensure your glue attachment is solid since monolid clients may have lashes that angle downward at the outer corners – strong bonding and perhaps slightly stronger curls on those outer lashes can prevent them from drooping.

Styling for Downturned Eyes

Downturned eyes have outer corners that dip lower than the inner corners. This slant can give the eye a gentle, sometimes sultry look, but clients often worry about looking “sleepy” or accentuating a droop. The aim with downturned eyes is to lift the appearance of the outer corners, essentially counteracting the downward tilt.

When mapping lashes for a downturned eye, you’ll want to avoid drawing attention to the lowest point of the outer corner. This means avoiding a true cat-eye style where the longest lashes are at the very end of the lash line – such placement could emphasize the downward bend and make the eyes look more droop. Instead, a great strategy is to use an open-eye or doll-eye mapping. By concentrating the longer lash extensions toward the center of the eye (or just slightly toward the outer half, but not at the extreme end), you create a lifted illusion in the middle which helps raise the look of the outer corners too. Essentially, the longest lashes should be centered above the iris or slightly beyond, but not at the far outer edge of the eye.

Another effective map is sometimes called the “squirrel” style, which places the longest extensions somewhere around the 2/3 mark from the inner corner (so, before the outer corner). After this point, the lengths might taper down a bit toward the very end of the lash line. This way, the emphasis (longest lashes) is just before the part of the eye that turns downward. The shorter lashes at the very end will not extend the eye’s line downward; instead, they sort of “tuck up” the look at the edge.

Curl choice is also important. Downturned eyes benefit from a strong curl on the outer lashes to physically lift those lashes up. For example, you might use B or C curls on the inner and mid sections, then switch to CC or D curls on the outer quarter of the lash line. The curlier outer lashes will pull the lash line upwards. Just be careful to blend the transition so it looks natural (you can mix curls gradually across a couple of millimeters).

In terms of length distribution: start with short at the inner corner, gradually increase, peak at the center or slightly past center, then either maintain that length for a bit and drop off at the edge, or start dropping off right after the peak. And as mentioned, don’t extend the map too far outward horizontally; ending the lash map a few millimeters before the very end of the natural lash line (leaving the outermost natural lashes either unlabeled or with very short extensions) can prevent a dragged-down look.

Styling Tips (Downturned Eyes):

• Recommended: Doll-eye or open-eye mapping, which lifts the eye by having the longest lashes toward the middle. A “kitten eye” (a softer, shorter cat-eye that doesn’t go extremely long at the end) can also work. Basically, styles that emphasize the center and subtly lift toward outer, but stop before the droopiest point.
• Curls: Use stronger curls on outer lashes (D, CC) to flip those outer corners upward. Inner and mid sections can be C or even B for a smooth gradation.
• Lengths: Medium at inner, long at mid, then medium-short at very outer end. For example, you might do 8mm at inner, gradually to 12mm at just past center, then down to 9mm at the last few lashes.
• Avoid: Cat-eye styling with longest extensions at the outermost corner – this will pull the eye down. Also avoid very flat curls on the outer lashes (no J or B on the ends) because they won’t provide lift.
• Application Note: Sometimes, you might even skip putting extensions on the very last one or two natural lashes near the outer corner, if those lashes angle sharply downward. Extending those could accentuate the downturn. It’s better to focus on lashes a little in from the corner for your longest lengths and let the tiny outer ones be subtle.

Styling for Upturned Eyes

Upturned eyes are the opposite of downturned – the outer corners sit higher than the inner corners, creating an uplifted, cat-like shape even with no makeup. Many consider upturned eyes very attractive and “exotic” because of that natural lift. Since they already have a built-in cat-eye effect, the lash styling can either enhance this lift further or balance it out depending on the client’s wishes.

For upturned eyes, you can certainly do a cat-eye mapping, which will dramatize the natural shape. Longer lashes on the outer corner of an upturned eye can look very feline (think of a classic winged eyeliner look – upturned eyes wear it easily). If your client loves the idea of really accentuating the lift, go for a cat-eye with long, flared outer lashes.

However, some clients with very upturned eyes might not want them to look even more upturned. In those cases, a more natural look mapping or even a doll-eye can provide a nice balance. A natural mapping (gradual increase to a moderate length at the center, then gradual decrease) will keep the eye looking proportional without exaggerating the tilt. In fact, some lash artists will purposely keep the outer-corner lashes a bit shorter or use a less curly lash on the very outer end of an upturned eye to avoid an overly lifted or “surprised” look.

It’s generally wise to avoid a doll-eye on strongly upturned eyes, because placing the longest lashes at the center while the outer corners are naturally higher can make the outer corners appear even higher by contrast (the mismatch in emphasis might look odd). Also, extremely curly lashes like a D on upturned eyes can potentially make the outer lashes curl back toward the lid, giving a startled or too “dolly” effect. Using C curls or even B on the outermost lashes can soften the lift a tad.

For mapping, consider a slight variation of cat-eye: You might start increasing lengths later (perhaps the longest lengths are not at the far outer corner but a few lashes before it) to avoid overshooting the lift. Or do a kitten eye (which is like a mini cat-eye) – still elongating the eye but using shorter lengths overall and not too dramatic at the end.

Styling Tips (Upturned Eyes):

• Recommended: Natural or cat-eye mapping. Both can work – cat-eye to play up the lift, or a more balanced approach if needed. Often just following the natural shape with a classic lash map looks great.
• Curls: Don’t over-curl the outer corners. C curl is usually sufficient for outer lashes (it will still follow the upturn). You can use D curls toward the center for some openness, but be cautious about D on the very ends as it might look too perky.
• Lengths: Outer corner can definitely hold longer lengths (upturned eyes usually have a nice platform for that). Just ensure the longest lashes aren’t so long that they touch the brow bone or look disproportionate. Keeping lengths moderate will highlight the shape without looking unbalanced.
• Avoid: Doll-eye styles on already upturned eyes, since they might diminish the attractive cat-like lift by focusing too much in the middle. Also avoid making outer corner lashes too curly or long in a way that might create a “flashy” or startled effect.
• Overall: Upturned eyes are often considered ideal for lash extensions because they naturally showcase extended lashes. Lean into that advantage – even a simple classic cat-eye set (with just a little extra length at the ends) can look stunning on this eye shape.

Upturned eyes generally look great with a cat-eye lash map, but be careful not to overdo curls at the outer corner to keep the lift looking elegant, not extreme. Upturned eyes often don’t require heavy correction, so sometimes less is more – a fact supported by common lash styling guides.

Adjustments for Close-Set & Wide-Set Eyes

Eye spacing – how far apart the eyes are – also impacts lash styling. Two clients might both have almond eyes, for example, but if one has close-set eyes (short distance between them) and the other has wide-set eyes (larger gap between them), the lash mapping strategy would differ. Customizing lash extensions means not only considering the shape of each eye, but also their placement on the face.

Close-Set Eyes: These are eyes that are nearer to each other (typically the space between them is less than one eye width). The styling goal is to create an illusion of more space between the eyes. You achieve this by drawing attention outward:

• Emphasize the outer corners with longer and possibly denser lashes. A cat-eye mapping is excellent for close-set eyes because the flared outer lashes visually pull the eyes apart.
• Keep the inner corners lighter and shorter. You might even start with ultra-short extensions (or none at all) on the very inner-most lashes to avoid adding any darkness or emphasis to the inner eye area.
• You can also use slightly stronger curls on the outer half of the eye to open and lift there, while using a gentler curl near the inner corners. This again causes the outer area to stand out more.

In short, for close-set eyes, place your drama on the outer side. A classic example: use a cat or kitten eye map with the longest length at, say, 80% of the way out, and perhaps add a few extra volume fans on the outer third for fullness. Meanwhile, keep the inner third very subtle. The result is that an observer’s attention goes to the outer corners, making the eyes seem further apart.

(A quick mapping tip: You might avoid any length increases until at least the middle of the eye or later. Essentially “delay” the longest lashes until well past the midpoint.)

Wide-Set Eyes: These eyes have more space between them (more than one eye width apart). Here, the aim is the opposite – you want to make the eyes appear a bit closer together (or at least not highlight the far apart distance). The lash styling trick is to draw focus to the center and inner parts of the eye:

• A doll-eye or open-eye mapping works well because the longest lashes are toward the center. By having the length in the middle, you center the attention on the midline of the face, subtly deemphasizing the wide spacingus.lashjungle.comus.lashjungle.com.
• Avoid a cat-eye for wide-set eyes, as the outward emphasis can push the visual width even more. You don’t want to accentuate the outer edges here.

You can even do a reverse cat-eye (also known as a kitten eye where inner are longer than outer) for some wide-set clients – meaning slightly longer lashes in the inner half and then not too long on the outer half. This can gently pull the gaze inward.

Using a good curl on the inner lashes can help too. Often inner corner natural lashes are short and fine, but if you can attach a nicely curled extension (say a C or D curl of a short length) on some inner lashes, those will stand up and be noticed, drawing the eye to the inner area. Just be careful that inner-corner extensions are not so long or curly that they twist or irritate the inner eyelid.

For both close-set and wide-set eyes, the key is balance. Always step back and look at the client’s face after mapping one eye to see if the emphasis is where it should be.

Styling Tips (Close-Set Eyes):

• Recommended: Cat-eye mapping (longer toward the ears). Lots of emphasis on outer corners.
• Lengths: Very short in inner (e.g. 6-7mm), gradually increasing to long at outer (e.g. 12mm at outer if safe). Possibly leave the extreme outer corner a tad shorter if the eyes also happen to downturn.
• Curls: You can use strong curls outward for lift and drama, softer curls inward to keep inner corners subtle.
• Avoid: Long extensions near the inner corner – these would draw eyes inward, which you don’t want.

Styling Tips (Wide-Set Eyes):

• Recommended: Doll-eye or a centered style (longer toward the center). You could even do a slight reverse cat-eye (longest just off center toward inner side).
• Lengths: Longer in middle (over iris), shorter at both inner and outer corners. For example, maybe 11mm at center, down to 8mm at inner and outer edges.
• Curls: Strong curl in the middle and inner sections can help bring those areas forward. Outer corners can be a step less curly to not pull too much focus outward.
• Avoid: True cat-eye with excessive outer length – it makes the eyes seem even farther apart. Also avoid leaving inner corners completely bare – we do want some lash presence toward the inner eye to frame it.

Styling for Deep-Set Eyes

Deep-set eyes sit deeper in the eye socket, usually accompanied by a more prominent brow bone. Often, deep-set eyes can make the upper lids and brow area overshadow the eyes, and long lashes might even touch the brow bone if curled too much. The objective with deep-set eyes is to bring the eyes “forward” visually and make them appear larger and less recessed.

For deep-set clients, a natural or open style often works best. A soft, natural lash map (moderate lengths evenly distributed or slightly graduated) enhances the eyes without adding too much weight or shadow. This eye type typically doesn’t need the dramatic elongation of a cat-eye or the extreme opening of a doll-eye; instead, a balanced approach tends to look most flattering.

Here are strategies for deep-set eyes:

• Moderate Lengths: Avoid extremely long extensions because they might touch the brow bone or crease area, causing discomfort and also casting a shadow (which can further make the eye look sunken). Use lengths that enhance but don’t overwhelm. Often just a mm or two longer than their natural lashes is enough to have impact.
• Lighter Curls: Instead of D or DD curls, which might curl back too far, opt for B or C curls for a gentle lift. These curls will open the eye slightly without the lash tips pointing straight back toward the lid. A deep-set eye already has an illusion of depth, so a massive curl can end up looking too “bendy” and not adding visible length from the frontal view.
• Even Distribution: You can use a classic mapping (even lengths across) or a slight doll-eye (a bit longer at center) to open up the eye area. Even a mild cat-eye (with only a tiny increase toward outer corners) can be fine as long as lengths are modest. The key is not to create any harsh contrast in lengths that might look unnatural on a deeply set eye; smoother transitions and a more uniform length give a natural, enlarged appearance without drawing attention to the shape in a negative way.
• Volume fans carefully: If using volume, make sure fans are lightweight. Sometimes a volume lash extensions guide will suggest using fewer lashes per fan (like 2D or 3D) for deep-set eyes, so you add fullness without too much darkness. You don’t want the lash line to become so dense that it creates a heavy shadow on the already recessed eyes.

A classic lash set or light volume set often looks very elegant on deep-set eyes. It enhances them just enough to pop when the client’s eyes are open, but it doesn’t scream “I have extensions” – it simply frames the eyes. Think of emphasizing length in a controlled way: for example, a uniform 10mm across the entire lid might be just perfect to make the eyes stand out without looking like a heavy strip lash.

Styling Tips (Deep-Set Eyes):

• Recommended: Natural mapping or gentle doll-eye (nothing too drastic). Keeping a consistent length across can make the lash line visible without one area looking too heavy.
• Curls: B or C curl primarily, maybe CC at the very center if you want a bit more open effect. Avoid very strong curls that could hit the brow bone or hide under the socket.
• Lengths: Short to medium lengths (e.g. 7–11mm range, depending on their natural lashes). Aim for a length that, when curled, still clears the brow bone.
• Density: Don’t overload with volume fans. If the client wants volume, use smaller fans or thinner lashes to avoid a bulky look. Often a hybrid set with classics and a few volume fans can give the impression of fullness without too much weight.
• Avoid: Overly long or curly extensions – these may brush against the eyelid or brow and cause irritation, and also might not be very visible from the front (if they curl too much under a deep brow bone). Also avoid an extreme cat-eye; since the eye is set back, a hugely long outer edge might “disappear” when viewed head-on, due to the facial structure.

Mastering how to customize volume lash extensions for each eye shape elevates your lash artistry to the next level. By assessing whether your client’s eyes are almond, round, hooded, monolid, upturned, downturned, etc., you can design a lash map that brings balance and highlights their beauty. Remember, small adjustments in length, curl, and placement make all the difference in complementing unique eye shapes. Whether you’re using handmade fans or high-quality premade fans (like those from ProLash), always tailor the style to the individual rather than using a generic template. The payoff is a set of lashes that looks effortlessly stunning and truly custom-made for that client.

Troubleshooting and Maintenance for Volume Lash Extensions

Even with careful application, common issues like clumping, fans falling apart, or poor retention can sometimes occur with volume lash extensions. Clumping often results from using too much adhesive or not allowing each fan to set before moving on to the next. To prevent this, use only a small amount of glue—just enough to coat the base of the fan—and wait a moment for it to become tacky before attaching. If you notice fans sticking together or a heavy appearance, gently separate them with a lash brush or separator right away. For best results, always work in a clean, well-lit area and avoid rushing through the application.

Fans falling apart before or during application are usually caused by improper handling or low-quality materials. To keep your volume fans intact, handle them gently with tweezers and avoid squeezing the base too tightly. Practice creating fans with a steady hand, and consider using high-quality premade fans if you’re still building confidence. If retention is an issue and lashes are shedding prematurely, double-check that the natural lashes are clean and free of oils before starting, and ensure the adhesive is fresh and stored properly. Regularly cleaning your tools and gently brushing the finished set will help maintain the fluffiness and longevity of your client’s volume lashes, so they continue to look full and beautiful between fills. 

In the end, the best lash styles are those adapted to the person wearing them. Use the tips and techniques in this guide as a starting point, but don’t be afraid to listen to your client’s preferences and get creative within the boundaries of good design and lash safety. With practice, you’ll be able to map and apply lashes that correct little asymmetries, enhance the eye’s shape, and even correct visual spacing – all through the artful placement of extensions. Every eye is a new canvas, and with your mapping skills, you can ensure every set of volume lash extensions is a perfect fit for every eye shape.

Sources:

• Lash Jungle – “Lash Extension Styling Secrets: Customising for Unique Eye Shapes”

• London Lash – “The Ultimate Guide to Volume Lash Extensions”

• BL Lashes – “Lash Mapping 101: How to Create a Perfect Set Every Time”

• Aki Lashes – “Lash Mapping Guide: The Best Styles for Every Eye Shape”

• BELO Lash – “Best Lash Extension Styles for Hooded Eyes”

• Vinlash – “The Complete Guide to Lash Mapping For Eye Shapes”